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Gucci in Bloom

By Laura McCreddie-Doak 3 Minute Read

GUCCI has created a fine-jewellery collection based on a design created in the 1960s. And Goldsmiths has the exclusives as Laura McCreddie-Doak finds out.

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There is a scene in Ridley Scott’s riotously enjoyable film House Of Gucci when Rodolfo Gucci, (played with delicious aplomb by Jeremy Irons) tells his son Paolo (Jared Leto) that his designs are “a triumph of mediocrity” and that, if he wants to know about Gucci’s style, he should study a scarf, one that has “caressed the necks of all the world’s beauties.” Paolo has other ideas and defiles the scarf in a rather unimaginative way.

However, it seems as though Alessandro Michele, GUCCI’s current creative director, has listened to Rodolfo’s instruction, because he has launched a new fine-jewellery collection, of which four pieces are exclusive to Goldsmiths, directly inspired by this scarf.

To create this intricate pattern, Rodolfo decided to commission Vittorio Accornero de Testa, the illustrator, painter, and set designer who worked with the House from 1960-1981, charging him with designing a new pattern for a silk scarf.

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The design has an almost “botanical illustration” realness to it. Nine bouquets of flowers are arranged around the scarf, riotously colourful and comprising lilies, poppies, cornflowers, tulips, ranunculus, anemones, and irises. Scattered in amongst the blooms are butterflies, bees, and other insects. Like GUCCI it had its roots in Florence, inspired, as it was by the dress worn by the nymph Flora in La Primavera and The Birth of Venus, both painted by fellow Florentine, Botticelli. It is a joyful, vibrant, print that was out of step with the more utilitarian horse-bits associated with the brand at the time. Flora, which cleverly married pastoral prettiness with urbane sophistication, was an instant hit. It became the print on which GUCCI based its dresses, handbags, and jewellery, before the equestrian motif once again took over and the print went out of fashion. It was revived in 2005 by then creative director Frida Giannini, and now her successor, Alessandro Michele, has reinterpreted it as a delicately feminine fine jewellery collection.

Rather than replicate Accornero’s designs, GUCCI has interpreted the romantic spirit of the pattern, translating its whimsical beauty into 18-ct rose and yellow gold pieces set with diamonds. There are dainty bracelets and necklaces adorned with diamond-set flowers, with the witty addition of Gs at intervals along the chain – a very GUCCI nod to the logo-centric collections of the past. There are bolder designs too – a yellow-gold ring and bracelet made from a band of leaves, with a diamond-set GG at their centre, beautifully made so the bands are soft and articulated. The latter, along with a diamond-set flower pendant and floral drop earrings also in diamond, are exclusive to Goldsmiths – a sign of The Watches of Switzerland Group’s close relationship with the luxury Italian House.

It is a collection of contrasts – delicate yet decadent, whimsical but also with a subtle power. It is also a masterclass in GUCCI style.

Explore the Gucci Flora collection here at Goldsmiths online or visit us in store at one of our showrooms where our jewellery experts will be delighted to help you.

Author Credit: Laura McCreddie-Doak has been writing about jewellery and watches for over a decade. She is a regular contributor to the likes of Times LUXX, Wired, The Telegraph, and Evening Standard, as well as online publications such as Ape to Gentleman.

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