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First Look

Dive Into the New TUDOR Pelagos FXD

By Amanda Evans | 7 minute read

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There seems to be no stopping luxury Swiss watch brand TUDOR when it comes to surprises. Always ahead of the game and consistently channelling the brand’s mantra of Born to Dare, their latest launch is no exception. Welcome to the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD.

Designed with underwater navigation in mind, the TUDOR Pelagos FXD has been elevated to the standards required for professional use, collaborating with a specialist unit of the French Navy, and meeting the gold standards required by the rigorous underwater pursuits of the French Navy’s combat swimmers. The result is a robust and prestigious technical watch that meets a unique set of design and functionality specifications.

The Pelagos FXD has been developed in accordance with a unique set of design and functionality principles from the French Navy’s combat swimmers. The key functional features of this new TUDOR Pelagos model include its fixed strap bars, abbreviated by the term “FXD” and the 120 click bi-directional bezel.

Robust and Reliable Fixed Strap Bars

The fixed strap bars and main body of the 42mm titanium case are crafted from a single piece of titanium. Designed as an extension to the lugs, they give the Pelagos FXD a unique silhouette affording it a robust nature and ultimate reliability with a configuration that doesn’t cater for spring bar straps that could potentially disengage during a dive. The precise and demanding nature of the work of the French Navy’s combat swimmers leaves no room for error.

Designed for Underwater Navigation

Another unique feature is the design of the 120 click rotating bezel, bidirectional with a retrograde graduation from 60 – 0 which meets the speciality needs of the combat swimmers known as “underwater navigation”. This term depicts the way in which combat divers navigate through the depths of the water to reach a precise location without surfacing. Needing to change course swiftly as they swim, the bi-directional rotating bezel of the TUDOR Pelagos FXD makes it easy to alter the timing of each swim. The extra-large bezel ring of the TUDOR Pelagos FXD has also been designed with this in mind and its blue lume is the last visible colour to be seen in the darkness, giving it the utmost clarity in the depths of the water.

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A Fusion of Design and Functionality

Aside from the exemplary functionality of the TUDOR Pelagos FXD that presents this watch as an outstanding tool as well as a timepiece, it has all the aesthetic features that we have come to know and love about historic TUDOR dive watches. The satin-brushed titanium case features a navy blue dial, designed in collaboration with the French Navy and a nod to reigniting this partnership. Characteristic square hour markers feature on the dial and “Snowflake” hands that, with their luminescence, present enhanced visibility in poor light. The bezel features a sand-blasted navy blue ceramic insert with luminescent markers and the timepiece is waterproof to 200 metres. Housing the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, this movement is 40% better than COSC and has been used in TUDOR watches since 2016. It runs at -2 to +4 seconds per day, has a robust and precise build and an impressive power reserve of up to 70 hours.

The watch is presented on a hallmark TUDOR single piece fabric strap woven in France by the Julien Faure company and adapted specifically to the TUDOR Pelagos FXD model. The 22mm navy blue woven ribbon has a central silver thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system which adapts to differing wrist sizes. In addition, for the first time, a one-piece rubber strap with embossed motif and buckle is also presented with the TUDOR Pelagos FXD. The centre of the complimentary rubber strap is made from fibreglass running which renders it extremely durable. Both straps offer the greatest comfort, whilst being highly technical and fit for marine purpose.

Originally inspired by the iconic reference 9401, this TUDOR Pelagos FXD in partnership with Marine nationale would not be complete without its engraved case back. Featuring the Marine nationale logo as well as the emblematic engraving M.N.21, representing Marine nationale 2021, this completes the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD.

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We spoke with our Assistant Buyer, Lauren Virk, who shared her views on TUDOR’s latest launch.

TUDOR is notorious for ensuring that a new product launch hits the ground running, with a series of teasers prior to launch day. This new launch has been the focus of internet chatter as well as in our Head Office. Were your predictions correct?

TUDOR has continuously surprised us over the past couple of years and this launch was no different. When they announced the re-formed partnership with the Marine nationale earlier on this year, we knew there was something exciting on the horizon. The ‘MN’ history helped shape TUDOR’s dive watches so I’m sure like everyone else, we were hoping for a modern-day dive watch with firm historic roots. Nevertheless, we certainly had our reminders on and eagerly awaited the countdown for the official reveal.

Is there anything about the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD that has particularly surprised you?

I think one of the most surprising parts of this piece is perhaps the most noticeable – the 120 click countdown bi-directional bezel. Being entirely luminescent, it differs from the rest of the Pelagos family and instead meets yet another specific requirement needed by the French Navy to meet the needs of underwater navigation. Wider than normal so that it is easier to use underwater whilst wearing gloves, the ceramic insert features a retrograde graduation rather than standard dive time markings.

Another surprising feature we need to mention is the more than welcomed return of the M.N. engraving on the case back of this timepiece. Markings that have an iconic status in the watch industry and the perfect way to commemorate TUDOR and the Marine nationale joining forces yet again.

What is your favourite design feature of the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD and why?

My favourite design feature has to be the new straps that come with the piece. Historically, TUDOR supplied watches to the French Navy without straps as they fitted them with their own that were robust enough to withstand whatever mission they were a part of. A specific requirement by the French Navy during this collaboration was that the watch has fixed strap bars as opposed to being affixed with spring bars. The entire case has been crafted from one block of Titanium to achieve this. A robust and secure solution needed when diving, the new highly technical strap is made from a single piece of fabric and can adapt to different sizes.

With the second strap showcasing a new feature by TUDOR – an embossed fabric motif – both straps pay the perfect tribute to the original history of military collaboration whilst featuring innovative modern brilliance.

Who do you think this new piece will appeal to and why?

Anyone looking for an authentic military diving piece, a horological icon that embodies the very concept of a tool watch, needs to look no further. The Pelagos FXD is steeped in history and combine that with modern day technological excellence, I have no doubt this timepiece will follow in its ancestors’ famous footsteps as a must have in your collection.

Explore more from TUDOR here at Goldsmiths.

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